A moqueca is Brazilian seafood stew made of dende oil and coconut milk. Like many of the typical dishes from Bahia state, moqueca has been influenced by African traditional cuisine. It is usually served with white rice and "farofa de dende" (manioc fried in palm oil), and the indispensable spicy red beans. I remember this dish vividly and fondly, not only because its smell is strong and unusual to me, but also because it felt like a reward after a long, incredible, unexpected journey. There was no Plan A, so I can hardly say that Morere was a Plan B. How did I get there? By taking all the possible public transportation available: fishing boats, tractors, 4x4, horses. When no public transportation was available, I would walk. Traveling under such conditions (no Lonely Planet coverage, no map, no plan, no ATM, 50 euros in my wallet) is an amazing privilege. I didn't find the way to follow, it found me and lead me to this memorable, well-earned meal.
